I had no idea that this castle was in this sleepy stop over today at Hluboka.

What a find!

The Hluboká Castle (German: Schloss Frauenberg) is considered one of the most beautiful castles of the Czech Republic and I stumbled across it by chance! In the second half of the 13th century a gothic castle was built at the site. During its history it was rebuilt several times. It was first expanded during the Renaissance period, then rebuilt into a Baroque castle at the order of Adam Franz von Schwarzenberg in the beginning of the 18th century. It reached its current appearance during the 19th century when Johann Adolf II von Schwarzenberg ordered the reconstruction of the castle in the romantic style of the Windsor Castle!

Yes you read correctly. He dictated that it should be a Windsor castle look alike!

The words “nad Vltavou” translate as “on the Vltavou” – hence any old town “on the river”.

Pisek to Hluboka nad Vltavou

Today was warm but with a couple of rides through cool pine forests (one of which was an “I am bloody lost” experience”), it was the first day that I had to rely on a Czech cycle map. In general the route was on quiet country roads and there is a reasonably well developed and numbered cycle path system. For example I am basically following routes 1017,1016, and intermittently without realizing it 1015, 1051, 1052, 1071 and 1071A and finally a fire track in the state forest outside Vestec.

It was also this first day that I passed many cyclists out for a weekend ride. Perhaps one or two road bikes but the vast majority were hybrids or mountain style. It rivaled some of the busy cycle tracks along the linear park and was very much a family activity.

I stopped for a late lunch – at a pub/restaurant at Purkarec. I resisted the urge to photograph the Goulash! But it was a cyclists heaven – not just middle aged men on Lycra but all ages and gender!

The final 10 or so km into Hluboka was a joy! It followed the river on my left but mostly the water was not visible as I cycled along a well maintained track several metres inland and through cool tall fir trees. “Dappled” is a hackneyed word, but it really does describe the sunlight through the pines. What was exhilarating was the gentle undulations every 200m. I gained some momentum descending, especially with the extra weight of the panniers which, mostly, would get me almost to the top of the next ascent with too many gear changes, but enough to get my heart rate and a sweat, up!

Another passing observation- Czech pubs don’t “do” ice! And completely unrelated, the European wasps are just as aggressive and troublesome here as in Australia!

I had “wild boar in red wine and fresh plums” for dinner! I could try this at home, but not sure where I would source the wild boar?

A great start.. Sun shining

I defy anyone to not not get lost when one comes to an intersection with 5 roads and 2 sign posts to a town pointing in different directions – look carefully! It’s Kluky that I want to go to!!!

Something is not quite right about this serene pastoral scene. Outside Tyn nad Vltavau.

I stopped for a late lunch – at this pub/restaurant at Purkarec. It’s the Czech answer to Meadows Bakery!

My room at the L-Club Pensione at Hluboka. No idea why it’s called the L-Club’

This is quite one of the most delightful villages. It sits on a river and the clean running water provided electricity and a huge malt house that fermented hops to make of course, beer.

As a consequence it was one of the first villages in Bohemia to switch on street electric lighting in 1789.

This led to a dramatic and almost instantaneous decrease in accidental deaths by drowning in the river. The explanation was in retrospect, blindingly obvious! The beer swilling natives could stagger home at night and not face the danger of falling in the river.

As it happens there is a “beer festival” today. It was not all that unique! Think of a food and wind festival on “The Parade” perhaps a quarter the size. However there is the ubiquitous stage with rock band and singer and at a volume that is universally unbearably loud. The music was definitely not Smetana!

Again I am in a delightful B & B in Pisek.

Will let the pictures tell the story!

The high speed intercity express that took me from Prague to Pisek!

This remarkable baroque “house” is in the town square- it’s now a specialist medical centre! Truely!

A delightful street scene and street – note the comparison to Prague and the lack of humanity!

This is the Dvorecek Hotel – one of the most luxurious in all South Bohemia. It was originally built by the local pharmacist Dvorecek in 1899. It was a violin school in the early 20th century.

The impressive Town Hall in the square

This 7 arched stone bridge over the Otava River was built in the late 13th century – it is the oldest preserved granite bridge of its type in the country!

I don’t think I have blogged specifically about this delightful town – well worth the stay and recommended. A brief blog then pictures!

Litoměřice (Czech) ; German: Leitmeritz) is a town at the junction of the rivers Elbe (Czech: Labe) and Ohře (German: Eger) in the north part of the Czech Republic, approximately 64 km (39,7 mi) northwest of Prague.

The area within the Ústí nad Labem Region is called the Garden of Bohemia thanks to mild weather conditions important for growing fruits and grapes. During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many pensioners chose it over more southern areas of the Empire. However I don’t think I would settle here in my twilight years.

There are two relatively significant periods in modern history with respect to the Czech Republic – the German occupation during the Second World War and then even more recently that by the Russians as part of the Eastern Bloc. In terms of the War, there is much to still see and contemplate serving as reminders of those devastating years. Surprisingly there is almost nothing that remains or is maintained with respect to the Russian occupation. I am not sure why this should be.

Part of the ancient walls and battlements.

The Litomerice. square

Cafe Bongornio – Litomerice style, sadly without the coffee at least in quality.

A Jesuit church and monastery !

The quaint church of Saint Wencelas , who I guess is somehow related to the Good King? He seems to be a significant historical person.

Crumbed bull’s testicles …. A man has to eat!