The United Services Club Brisbane

Three days in Brisbane – staying at this club like accommodation in the CBD. A gentlemen’s club, heavens knows how they let me in. All smartphones requested on silent, no smoking allowed of course even cigars.

The vestibule

The Dining Room



The Stair Case

The Reading Room and Library filled with books of mainly fascinating military subjects and memoirs

A second remarkable dinner

The cycle trip has finished and there is a certain warm glow and smugness in achieving 8 days of exercise. This my last supper at the Hostellerie De La Bouriane, Gourdon. It is silver service and the Maître D’ is dressed in a dinner suit and is obviously the ONLY member of staff on duty, indeed is the owner.

I have visions of the episode of “Fawlty Towers” in which Basil attempts a silver service dinner and predictably fails, not only because of Basil, but the chef was intoxicated or was the chef going out as it was previously his rostered night off?

I am reassured by the impressive olde world dining room and the menu, not to mention the Maître D’ who does appear to be in control, although it will be a long evening but worth the wait

The formal dining room

The menu

Entree

La Salade du Moment

This was quite a creation as the apparent mozzarella balls were in fact an iced sorbet like taste but with actual mozzarella.

The Main

The Suggestion of the Day – Duck! But what a duck

The Dessert

Les Eyzies to Gourdon

The last day of a great 8 days of cycling with sublime weather and routes.

This final day was the longest following the valley with a few gentle climbs despite the fearsome elevation graph above. The maximum gain was only 150m.

There were 2 picturesque villages ( although all the villages could be so described) on the day

Saint Pompont

Daglan

A deserted chapel on the road to Daglan

And here is a screen grab of the summary of the trip in total

but wait, there’s more, or as they say at an Apple event… “one more thing….”

here are the summaries of the activities for the week which include

Walking Distance

Climbing (not riding but walking )

And finally heart rate

I think I need a beer

A pleasant circuit from Les Eyzies

The route was to La Roque St Christopher thence St Leon sur Vezere. Again a relatively early start with a brisk climb at the beginning, which of course meant a great descent on the return.

The route for the day

On the road to La Roque St Christopher

The prehistoric site La Roque St Christopher

A fascinating education on cave dwelling in which for more than 20000 years humans and their ancestors carved villages out of the cliff face using the natural caves with modifications. It was primarily for security rather than to market penthouse dwellings!

One of the more fascinating pieces of history which caught my eye was the reign of Charles 111, King of West Francia from 879 to 929. He managed to father 6 daughters by his first marriage, a son by his second marriage and several “bastards” . He was affectionately called Charles the Simple, although obviously able to do more than simple arithmetic! Actually the French word was more literally translated as “straightforward”.

Britain will, in the near future, have its very own Charles the Simple.

The longest staircase carved out of a single piece of rock in all of Europe

The Romanesque church in St Leon sur Vezere

The interior of the church – which has parts of the original frescoes on the dome

Yet another small street this one in St Leon

The river Vezere running through St Leon

La Roque-Gageac to Les Eyzies

Another beautiful day of “doable” cycling setting out a little before 9am with crisp, cool windless weather. Here is the route map:

The early morning sun and trees on the road to Les Milandes

Another bloody Chateaux on the road to Milandes.

I have a sense that almost all of these fairytale chateaus are privately owned and at least one of which I rode past, by a middle Eastern oil sheik. I don’t for one moment assume that it’s the only such one.

A remarkable chateau in Milandes which belonged to an equally remarkable woman Josephine Baker

Josephine Baker was an Afro American singer and dancer who rose from poverty to become one of the most famous stars in the Paris music and vaudeville shows of the 30s and 40s. Equally famous for serving in the French resistance, sheltering people wanted by the Nazi and also after the war adopting 11 orphans from all parts of the world and espoused that great truism “all men are created equals” well before her time. She died penniless, so generous was she with her philanthropy that was forced to sell the chateau. Look her up on Google

The view from yet another chateau- the Castelnaud Castle

The church at St Cyprien

Thus Romanesque church in St Cyprien once belonged to an Augustinian Abbey. Of course like all Roman Catholic Churches it had to have a “relic” and as Jesus’ foreskin had already been claimed, the Augustinian monks were quite circumspect about the dilemma and bid for a thorn from the crown. Being a frugal Order they were more than content with just one thorn. It was called the “Sainte Epine” or holy thorn! But there is more to this delicious story as it ( the thorn) had naturally miraculous powers and so sick pilgrims would flock to the church so that the Abbey would rub his thorn against the body of the sick!

The practice of rubbing a little prick against a parishioner’s body is still carried on to this day in some monasteries.

The Dordogne in Les Eyzies

Eating at a Michelin Guide Restaurant

A delightful meal inclusive of the tour price! Eating at arguably the best restaurant in the Dordogne. The reviews in Trip Advisor certainly agreed.

I dined with the 3 Canadian women who are with same cycle company and whom I met at the outset but not quite the same itinerary. Good fortune had us arriving at La Roque-Gageac on the same day. It is the custom of these 3 travel companions to share a bottle of champagne at some stage and tonight I was part of the group so a bottle of the best quality Champagne was duly ordered and consumed.

Here is the menu of the chef for the season / which I chose although there was an a la carte option.

The entree

The main course

And dessert

So the best for last..

La Belle Etoile Restaurant in La Roque-Gageac