Prague day 1

My guide book states: “free of traffic (except for a few horse drawn carriages) and ringed with historic buildings, Prague’s Old Town Square ranks amongst the finest public spaces…”

Note carefully that the descriptive “open” is not used and for obvious reason. Never in my wildest dreams, or rather nightmares, have I been confronted with such a seething mass of humanity. It was not enjoyable. So tightly knit were these literally hundreds of tour groups that it was impossible to raise one’s arms from the anatomical position. It was marginally threatening.

The always inventive, inscrutable
Japanese have in predictable fashion, devised a fiendishly simple solution. As they sweep around the corner, like Emperor Penguins (or were they Fairy) in the depths of winter, they execute what can only be described as a huddle. As one, they raise their arms, holding their iPads high above them and advance like a tsunami into the square. The simile is not without substance, as so frightening is the sight, that other groups are torn asunder by the advancing tidal wave.

Now that I think about it, I realize that this obviously explains why Japanese photographers have developed somewhat of a well deserved reputation for the “panorama shot”.

A passing comment: Why is that every museum which I decide to visit on the spur of the moment, is invariably closed on that day? The Museum of Music in fact is normally closed on Tuesdays, but some inexplicable reason was also closed for the following two days!

20130904-212045.jpg

Statue of Charles and tower of the Eponymous bridge.

20130904-212149.jpg
The Little Quarter Tower Bridge

20130904-212305.jpg

The view from the watchman’s “apartment” in the Bell tower of St Nicholas. His job was to ring the bells in time of danger – enemy, fire or flood – the place to be in which case! He received 531 florins a year. In addition his benefits included one pair of ear muffs – even in 1576 OHS was ever present.

20130904-212359.jpg

The organ of the Church of St Nicholas. A fresco of St Cecilia, Patron saint of music, watches over the organ, constructed in 1787 and…. wait for it, played by Mozart in 1787. Now for me that is a religious experience.

20130904-212442.jpg

The pulpit dating from 1775. They buy Brasso by the bucket load. The altar boys gain considerable rubbing skills.

20130904-212524.jpg

Church of St Nicholas – this is the last bloody church I am going to snap. Promise. What is more confusing is that the TWO main churches in Prague are both called. St Nicholas.

20130904-212617.jpg

The Rudolfinum – home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra

Prague trinkets

Is there a Czech trashy tourist trinket? The equivalent of the Irish leprechaun stuffed soft toy or the Scandinavian Viking head gear or the Australian stuffed Koala, or even the soft leather pouch used to carry golf balls – appropriately manufactured out of tanned kangaroo scrotum skin and snapped up by startled Japanese golfers, presumably the men, more quickly than one can say “torsion”.

The answer to this rhetorical question is “yes” and as long as it is something in glass or “bohemian” crystal, one can label it a Czech “souvenir”. The most common appears to be the chandelier. It is crystal clear to me that the vast majority, if not all, are glass and perhaps may be described as bohemian, figuratively rather than literally.

Unfortunately, size prohibits me from bringing any of these back as presents – sorry Pamela!

20130904-150449.jpg

Madame Butterfly in Prague

A night at the opera – the Prague State Opera – perfect seat : 4th row from the front smack in the middle. Puccini has not been in my top of the pops of composers, but after tonight, he has moved up the charts, a lot. I find Puccini to be a “tune tease”. Tonight I appreciated the complexity and tunefulness of this opera and the fact that Pinkerton is Puccini’s “Don Giovanni”. A sailor has a girl in every port, although I do believe some sailors enjoy tying up with a buoy.

As always I ask myself would I do the ironing to the music? Perhaps more so than a week ago.

The Opera theatre is the ultimate in Baroque design! The theatre itself originally opened in 1888 as the New German Theatre and from 1949 to 1989 it was known as the Smetana Theatre. More recently it is known as the Prague State Opera.

As I had wandered the streets of Prague from 10 am till curtain up at 7 pm, I brought a crisp new shirt for $15. Surprisingly the theatre was only 2/3 full.

20130904-081858.jpg

The auditorium

20130904-081949.jpg

I am led to believe its genuine bohemian crystal.

20130904-082046.jpg

20130904-082100.jpg

The Opera Theatre

20130904-082129.jpg

The adjacent National Museum , this older section is presently closed for renovations.

Litomerice

I don’t think I have blogged specifically about this delightful town – well worth the stay and recommended. A brief blog then pictures!

Litoměřice (Czech) ; German: Leitmeritz) is a town at the junction of the rivers Elbe (Czech: Labe) and Ohře (German: Eger) in the north part of the Czech Republic, approximately 64 km (39,7 mi) northwest of Prague.

The area within the Ústí nad Labem Region is called the Garden of Bohemia thanks to mild weather conditions important for growing fruits and grapes. During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many pensioners chose it over more southern areas of the Empire. However I don’t think I would settle here in my twilight years.

There are two relatively significant periods in modern history with respect to the Czech Republic – the German occupation during the Second World War and then even more recently that by the Russians as part of the Eastern Bloc. In terms of the War, there is much to still see and contemplate serving as reminders of those devastating years. Surprisingly there is almost nothing that remains or is maintained with respect to the Russian occupation. I am not sure why this should be.

20130903-062446.jpg

Part of the ancient walls and battlements.

20130903-062654.jpg

The Litomerice. square

20130903-062918.jpg

Cafe Bongornio – Litomerice style, sadly without the coffee at least in quality.

20130903-063047.jpg

20130903-063118.jpg

A Jesuit church and monastery !

20130903-063216.jpg

The quaint church of Saint Wencelas , who I guess is somehow related to the Good King? He seems to be a significant historical person.

20130903-063426.jpg

Crumbed bull’s testicles …. A man has to eat!

Lost, who me?

The signage for the trail was mostly excellent and equal to that on the Camino. The cycle route was numbered 2 for most of the journey although at times on the Czech part it became route 7…

Ignore the fact that my cycle is facing in the opposite direction. It’s an optical illusion.

20130902-214428.jpg

Melnik

Last stop before Prague. My initial reaction is that one could miss Melnik or at the very least not stay. The castle is well worth a visit and its on my schedule. But Melnik is basically now on the industrial outskirts of Prague and it has that frenetic feel with pot holed roads and big trucks belching exhaust fumes between large graffiti ruined factories

The accommodation was also the least enjoyable. I had some difficulty in finding a bed and breakfast, not helped by a curt Tourist Information officer, who shoved a list of hotels and a map of the city in my direction.

The Hotel Ludmila is on the outskirts – a typical 10 story box. They had rooms! In fact according to the reception lad, he shrugged and said they were “empty”. I had a sense of foreboding, magnified several times over when he went through the room choices of which there were 4. The “basic”, then the “special”, and so on up to suites. When I asked the difference between “basic” and “special”, he became somewhat flustered and obvious had difficulty in explaining the specifics in English. ( price difference about 10 Euro), finally he resorted to the statement that ” well somethings may not work.” I was flabbergasted. What did he mean?

Well for a start the hallway lights did not work… At all! The breakfast was abysmal, the so called “Wi Fi lounge” was half correct. There was a lounge seat. Others in Trip Adviser have summed it up as a typical old fashioned Eastern European hotel.

20130902-090923.jpg

20130902-090935.jpg

20130902-091006.jpg

Pictures show the “breakfast buffet, – its a “spot the missing bits” competition,

A bus load of Belgian cyclists decamped at the hotel…

And the rivers at Melnik

20130902-213343.jpg

Spontaneous concerts !

I recall that arriving in a village and finding, serendipitously there is a concert that night, has provided some extraordinary memorable evenings, and tonight was no exception. Often it happens as I stumble into a cathedral or am drawn to the sound of music and enter the church to find a rehearsal.

It happened on the Camino where at the church in Fromista a young classical guitarist was performing. He worked his way through many of the easily recognized classical guitar pieces to an embarrassingly small but appreciative audience. He was excellent.

In Tiradentes, Brazil, Osley and I were invited by our hotel owner to an organ recital. Held in the cathedral the organ was one of the oldest still in playing condition, manufactured by a famous organ builder – whose name escapes me!

This concert at Litomerice was held in the All Saints church and the programme would quite easily have made the ABC top 10 Baroque compositions. Why do I say this so confidently? It started with the Bach Toccato and Fugue, a Corelli Concerto Grosso, throw in a couple of arias from the Messiah – “Comfort me..” which leads onto of course, “Every Valley shall be exalted and then that sublime aria from Rinaldo – “Lascia ch io piranha” It finished with the duet by Vivaldi “Laudamus”. But wait there was more! 4 encores!

Unheard of …The soprano pelted out Ave Maria, floral bouquets distributed, then both singers did a repeat of the Vivaldi, then the orchestra did an encore, then both singers did Ave Maria as a duet!

Talk about “sending them away happy”!

Incidentally the rather sexy young bass player was a bit of a “bobber”- a tendency to bob the head in various directions in time with the music. A trait my Recorder teacher ferociously and vociferously opposes. I have the physical and mental scars to prove it. What was fascinating about the “Bass Bobber ” was his whole body did it! I initially wondered whether he may some neurological movement disorder but in the end found him quite charming!

Finally, to date it has been perfect autumnal weather.

20130901-081319.jpg

Error
This video doesn’t exist