A day of rest – Asti

August 23, 2014August 23, 2014 / graham3693

.After 2 days of fairly tough riding, a lay day in Asti. My opinion is that the medieval town of Alba the day before was more attractive. The more fascinating aspects of Asti, however were the black truffles and the regional wine. White truffles are mentioned but I did not see any – they are I believe, much more expensive than the black variety. For 2 days we had cycled up and down across rolling hills and valleys, along the saddles with vineyards, orchards of ripening autumnal fruit and in season stone fruit, and vast forests of hazel nut trees. The peaches and nectarines were so good.

This all sounds positively Elysian, and it was. Provided you arrived at a village either before noon or after about 4 pm, one could buy fresh fruit, breads, cheeses and cold meat cuts. Between these times absolutely every town and village had the appearance of a ghost town, a deserted movie set! As I rode along in the summer heat I had visions of being found dead around 3:55 on the side of a country road, just on the outskirts of a village, the autopsy revealing that I had died of dehydration and starvation.

In Asti we had a stunning meal, the antithesis of the dining experience the night before. We had a very friendly, not to mention, sexy Italian young waiter who was attentive and helpful. He was delighted to offer suggestions for our food and wine. An “anti pasta misto” for 5 people, then various local dishes. One of these was pasta – a very thin spaghetti, simply tossed in a hot butter and truffle infused olive oil dressed with truffle slivers. Another was the local variation of Spaghetti Bolognese. To my surprise none of the diners who chose outside tables, smoked and I specifically noted that ashtrays were not provided! I used Goggle translate to compliment the handsome Italian waiter on this.

Once I had explored the town, I set off on a day trip to the natural reserves – a round trip , on the flat of about 34 km. it was through at times dense forest and on gravel paths, more suited to mountain bikes, but great fun and took me less than 3 hours.

The village of Cinaglio after 18 km had a tranquil square with its municipal building and ornate church. I sat in the square and had iced tea and a fresh peach. I an refreshed for the ride to Casale Monferrato tomorrow.

The tranquil green valley of the round trip from Asti

The village square and church of Cinaglio where I stopped for a drink and fresh peach.

Alba to Asti

August 21, 2014 / graham3693

A day of relative ease compared to the first two days. Whilst the route guide suggested 35 km and about 300m ascent, it was still in parts, hard slog. But whilst it may take the best part of an hour to cycle slowly up at inclines of 6 to 10%, the 10 to 15 minutes of a delicious wind swept descent is worth the effort – once you get there!

On this day we also cycled mostly on small local roads or gravel roads which felt extremely safe. The shorter distance meant we could slow down and spend time visiting the villages and their castles and churches.

Asti is not attractive as Alba, but we stay here for 2 nights. We decided to have an evening meal at an upmarket restaurant recommended by the staff at our hotel. It was not a success. A less than memorable meal

Perhaps it was simply that we struck a bad evening? We arrived at 7:30 pm the precise time that the restaurant opens. The Maître de seemed flustered by this and the fact that we had not made a reservation and possibly our casual attire? The restaurant gives the appearance of silver service, the menu read well, so we persisted despite our misgivings.

I would never be presumptive or critical of the lack of English in a foreign establishment, our waiter had a degree of English – I suspect more than he presented! Our attempts to ask for some advice on the menu, induced a sweaty irritation and after a minute or tie he abruptly left explaining that he had other diners to attend to! The restaurant had about 2 other couples! We seriously considerd walking out! But the promise of outstanding local food was enough to make us stay seated. Bad decision!

The food was not up to expectations for the establishment as it presented itself. We asked advice to try some local and regional cooking. This seemed to further exasperate the waiter! Basically the beef and veal ragu style was nothing out of the ordinary but the accompanying vegetables: green beans and potato “chips” were sad and sorry, luke warm on cold plates, the chips appearing to have been deep fried, then I suspect reheated. Others on our group had the prawns- declared a success.

We could have understood if the poor waiter was run off his feet, by it was not the case. When we sat down there were only one other couple. The overall sense was that it was all too hard for the staff. If the food had been outstanding, we could have forgiven the waiter his demeanor, sadly not the case.

The delightful gravel road through a poplar plantation.

The Castle at Govone

Looking down on the village of Govone from the castle

Pictures from Acqui Terme and Alba

August 19, 2014August 19, 2014 / graham3693

A few pics without words- or only a few !

The piazza of Acqui Terme with the spring water “monument” it’s not leaning like the Pisa version ! I am I think

A delightful brick church at Acqui Terme with the dusk sun catching the facade – the church of San Francesca

A panorama between Acqui Terme and Alba

Street leading off the main Piazza at Alba

Street leading off the main Piazza at Alba again!

The Duomo – Alba

Alessandra-Acqui Terme-Albe

August 19, 2014August 19, 2014 / graham3693

These first two days have turned out to be rather relentless in terms of cycling. Both were of a distance no more than 60km. A gentle Sunday perambulation for those that own a light weight carbon or even better, titanium framed contraption. We ride that most Sundays! One could be at the Cafe latte after tackling Norton Summit, 2 hours from a standing start! Snigger you may, but it took us on average 5hrs 30min day one and more than 6 and a half hours on the second. Not for want of trying. Day 1 we climbed up and down dale for 700m whilst on day 2 it was 1000m. A few panoramic shots will do more than words to demonstrate the endless rolling hills of vineyards, apple, plum and stone fruit orchards as well as acres and acres of hazelnut trees! Often we cycled along a saddle with picturesque valley on either side then more mountains!

The guide books supplied have in the main been excellent and becoming lost or mildly disorientated has occurred only a few times.

Acqui Terme is a hot springs town and the piazza has an ornate marble tower our of which the sulphurous greenish water gushes at a constant 75degrees centigrade.

The town of Alba is the capital of the truffle and the wonderful black variety is on display in glass cabinets on the street in front of the store with the price of a truffle I estimate at about 1 euro a gram or in other words 1000 euro a Kg!

At Alba after the exhaustion of our ride and with a well deserved air of achievement and smugness, we ate out at a nice restaurant and sampled the local food and wine, naturally with truffles and pasta in at least one dish.

Alessandra

August 18, 2014August 18, 2014 / graham3693

The start of our week cycle adventure in Piedmonte. The group came together with the arrival of the jet lagged James-Martin couple. We met them at the station then walked to the hotel. Both were too tired to even contemplate adding grumpiness.

I and the DeBoo team had arrived by slow train from Florence the day before.

The town is steeped in military history having a large fort on the outskirts constructed during the time of Napolean and some rather wide avenues, which the locals explain were specifically engineered for large troop movements. I guess this is the napoleonic equivalent of the extremely wide highway in Singapore from the airport, which the local taxi drivers boast was again engineered for military purposes. Specifically it can, in the twinkling of an eye, be cleared of all those trees in large tubs , and become a runway for the Singapore Air Force! One can only wonder what long straight avenue in Canberra, would be so altered, should Tony Abbott learn of this.

This weekend is a the Italian equivalent of the Aussie long weekend. August is the big European summer holiday month but this weekend almost everything is closed.

The train from Florence to Alessandra went to Pisa then followed the coast to Genoa and the Cinque Terra – to which we shall return.

On our first night in Alessandra was an amazing sudden electrical storm – the type that totally brings hail and the temperature plummets. We were out promenading and were drenched. The weather contributed to one of my BEST travel pictures. See if you agree?

This is the better of the two below!

Paella before Florence

August 10, 2014August 10, 2014 / graham3693 / 1 Comment

Practicing the Recorder tonight before seafood paella- a Friday night special at the local restaurant. Suddenly the door to the balcony of the room next door opened and two middle aged men dressed in bike leather appeared! Should be some fun tonight if I play my cards right? Actually one is German, the other Swiss, so I promptly play the Kaiserhymne by Haydn. They are suitably impressed! I seductively tongue an A in the upper register, throw in a grace note and finish on lower F.

My last day in Avigliana was spent cycling mainly around the lakes (there are two) on small back roads then to Giaveno and on to Coazze and back to Aviagliana. The road up was of a gradual ascent over about 12 km. The last village lies at the foothills of the Alps and the entrance to one of many national parks. I wandered through both villages each of which had a local produce market. Coazze has signs proclaiming it to be the mushroom capital of Italy! Food for thought. What about a huge sign at Sydney international airport arrival lounge: “Welcome to Australia – the mushroom country of the world”.

The return cycle trip was a delicious descent over about 10km. I earned a gelato- lavender flavoured.

It’s now Saturday and I have arrived by high speed train in Florence to be greeted by sweltering heat and swarms of tourists. As I walked to the apartment via the Duomo, I was confronted by a snake like queue at least a kilometre long! I have a tremendous sense of foreboding.

The DeBoo family arrived around 4 pm – hot and sweaty so we put the kettle on. It’s almost too hot and humid to venture out. A siesta is appealing.

An approaching electrical storm from the restaurant balcony.

A medieval gate (portico) on the old part of Avigliana

The seafood paella

One of the multitude of Japanese tourist groups, frustrated by the queue at the Duomo, are led on an excursion of the industrial waste bins of Florence

Of Church and Cars – or Fiats Rule

August 9, 2014August 10, 2014 / graham3693

There is a universal ambience to all Catholic Churches around the world. On entering it takes a few minutes to become accustomed to the darkness. Shafts of light from stained glass windows and domes, pierce the cavernous nave. The air is a constant cellar like temperature, so it is cool in summer and perhaps seemingly warm in winter.

Then there is the unique smell: much more complex than musty, although there is a distinct element of that. The principle components are the scent of burning candle wax mixed with incense, merged with dark preserved wood. The latter is akin to the smell of well worn, polished wooden furniture that one finds in antique shops. The wooden benches in the choir stalls rubbed shiny smooth and moulded into gentle dimples by the countless rubbing, over centuries, of the buttocks of thousands of choir boys. Once a month Father Clementine gives them a good oiling and rub down with a genuine chamois – the benches of course, not the choir boys’ buttocks!

So it is the presence of smell and of light and the equal absence of sound that creates this distinctive marriage of the senses.

Invariably in every church or cathedral I enter, there will be at least one person, age not relevant, not obviously a tourist, sitting in quiet contemplation. Some kneel, some possibly shedding a tear or two and I find myself wondering what upheaval in life is confronting them?

My upheavals in life however around Avigliana can be attributed to the ubiquitous Fiat! The small model that is essential to navigating the cobblestoned streets and alleys. They are, as far as I am concerned, a mechanical version of the European Wasp. If I suddenly turn a corner and visualise a medieval street scene or piazza, worthy of an iPhone picture, there hugging the central XII century fountain is a XXI century Fiat. Usually at least two and mostly three. There is an obvious “Parcheggio vietato” sign, but of course Fiats can’t read can they?

If it is a bad day, the Fiats are displaced by a large council rubbish truck. All of them have a debilitating sense of permanency – being in a siesta – as are their drivers.

I am cycling along at a reasonable pace on a main road and all seems quixotically quiet. A narrow cobblestone alley on my left leads to a gradual ascent to the “old town”, castle and church. I exit on this apparent pedestrian only thoroughfare. As God is my witness, within a few minutes, at least four Fiats, have turned into this very same narrow street rapidly coming up behind me. The one advantage is that whilst I need to dismount, a Fiat is of small enough width to allow passage between the convoy and my cycle and I, without risk of injury.

There is however a seemingly more insoluble confrontation between car and cycle. 4 Fiats from behind is a minor irritating hiccup compared to the sudden appearance on the cobblestones ahead of a late model Audi Station Wagon noisily bumping down on you and bicycle. It’s twice as wide as a Fiat and much more aggressive.

The ONLY solution is for one to dismount, knock frantically on the iron security gate of a local apartment and ask the housewife if she wouldn’t mind if you and your bike could occupy the front room for a few seconds to let a car pass?

Finally, street and traffic signs are a futile attempt by the civic fathers to promote law and order for pedestrian, cyclist and car. They are universally ignored and the ignorant are above the law! I have a sudden, fleeting sense that I am about to meet my maker, as I cycle with some momentum along a busy main road and suddenly there in front is a car parked on the side of the road, facing me! I do a quick check! Fuck ! Am I riding on the wrong side of the road? Was that keep to the left or the right? It is all too much for a senior Australian citizen.

As God is my witness, a car turned up this road, seconds after me on my bike!

The town square at Giaveno – only ONE Fiat!

Dal Santuario Di Selvaggio

An approaching electrical storm from the a restaurant balcony

A seafood paella and a jug of Sangria.

Music, Medieval Avigliana and Sacra San Michel

August 8, 2014August 8, 2014 / graham3693 / 2 Comments

I try to practice the Recorder at least once a day and if organised and not too buggered, twice!

The couple in the room next door, I suspect also make music twice a day. It tends to be a rather crescendo/de-crescendo and with strange key changes and mostly in 2/4 time and with disconcerting changes in tempi. I have noticed that they break the first commandment of ensemble playing: “thou shalt start together and finish together”.

I am more considerate as I commit at least an hour to my music making and practice by the lake with a semicircle of appreciative ducks or behind the hotel rubbish dump with my sheet music resting on a SULO bin. In so doing I inadvertently create the first sound, light and smell show?

Yesterday I cycled to Susa, and walked kilometers around that delightful town. Whilst I only rode 42 km it was adequate and the precarious relatively major road convinced me to train it back. It was still a full day. So I reasoned that today I would explore the old city of Aviagliana.

With clear directions and map provided by the helpful hotel staff, I set off on the Bianchi, Garmin primed, to cycle around the lake and end up at what I assumed was the original Castello of the ancient city. Signs directed me to the Sacra San Michele. I anticipated a gentle climb…

The astute reader will have well founded feelings of foreboding. Well the Sacra San Michele is NOT the Castello del Conte Rosso! The latter is within 4km of my chalet at an altitude of no more than 150m, the former is about 12km further and 800 m higher with inclines at times of 10%. At the top one is about 1 km above sea level. I had flashbacks to Switzerland. I walked the last 4 km and climb of 400m once there it was well worth the effort. The Abbey closes from 12:30 to 2:30 pm so be warned if you are planning a visit. Sadly I walked up all hot and bothered at 12:35!

The pamphlets proudly state that this Benedictine Monastery was the inspiration for the novel “The Name of the Rose”.

Even this evening, sitting relaxed and satiated, I can’t recall exactly when the penny dropped! Possibly when sweaty and breathless, I stopped to admire the view and turning, saw the Castello del Conte Rosso perched on a hilltop in the distance and well and truely behind me! I do vividly remember yesterday cycling along the valley road to Susa, looking up at the ruins of what was todays challenge – the Sacra San Michele and thinking “how the bloody hell do people get to that place?” Now I know.

The medieval town of Aviagliana dates from around the XII century and again is well preserved, clean and very quiet – or in other words giving the appearance of an ancient ghost town.

This is where I am headed – Sacra San Michel

The monastery buildings from the top.

The Susa valley from the monastery 1km above sea level.

A street scene of the medieval town of Aviagliana

A couple of close ups of the monastery

A day trip to Susa by bike

August 7, 2014 / graham3693

A beautiful Bianchi bike – for the cyclists reading this blog : Ultegra group set, which, as a Campy man, found me twiddling my thumbs as they are not needed at least when it comes to shifting up
or down a cog.

The ride on route SSP24 was not enjoyable. It was not the motorway, but nevertheless still busy and unsettling. Mostly the road for 35 km was intermittent industrial estates.

One could argue that a passing Fiat Bambino, travelling at 80/hr driven by a Sister from the local convent is a mere gentle breeze, when compared to a passing Commodore at 120km/hr where the tendency is to swerve towards the bike, creating a vortex that threatens to suck you off the saddle.

The ultimate destination, Susa, was a more than adequate reward for it is nestled at the end of the Susa Valley, with the Alps on my right and left. It was an important ancient Roman settlement around 2 or 3 BC. It had roman ruins, an amphitheatre and aquaduct. A well preserved triumphal arch and again remarkably preserved walls and portico.

The township itself was also thriving with cobbled pedestrian streets. A small river still somewhat silty and slate grey water, rushed through the town.

My overall impression of modern Italy is rampant weeds along transport corridors further polluted with graffiti; a confusing impression of aging infrastructure at odds with an occasional 21st century sleek high speed train. And still after all these years tobacco pollutes the environment. The majority still smoke. Public Vending machines spew out a packet potentially to anyone irrespective of age, if you can cough up the money and reach the buttons! If you can’t reach, steal a crate and stand on that! A typical nuclear Italian family eats out and before and after each course, mother and father smoke in front of their 3 beautiful children.

Anyway enough of this. Tomorrow is another day.

Cycling Europe – Self Guided style

September 28, 2013September 28, 2013 / graham3693 / 1 Comment

A few random thoughts. The cycle tracks are without doubt superb. Excellent signage. As well at the main tourist offices, free detailed cycle maps often in English are readily offered.

Moreover there are excellent books, again in English which can be purchased at book shops and often the major tourist offices, suitable for the map pouches that one can attach to the handle bars.

Given my navigational skills, or deficiency thereof, I did find that deviating off the beaten track, especially to wander aimlessly in the locals towns, was challenging. The more so if the village covered an area of more than a block.

Travelling solo and in September, presented no issues with finding accommodation. Using Trip Advisor or the web site Booking.com, made it straightforward and on the occasional time I cycled into a town, unlike Joseph (or Mary), I managed to easily find an inn. Some were basic, but given my nature, I gained a certain sense of sanctimonious deprivation.

For a group, especially the groupies I cycle with, the issue of finding adequate and acceptable bedding arrangements, may provoke a degree of grumpiness.

Clothing

For a predominately flat ride – which was not all that challenging, I don’t think I would miss not having cleats, unless there is a shoe, about which I am not aware, that permits one to cycle and then walk in noiseless, aimless comfort. Hence my packing one pair of cleat cycling shoes proved stupid! It’s just not done, to mimic Fred Astaire tap dancing a time-step around the cloisters of a gothic cathedral.
.
I would wear cycle nics both for riding and as underwear. A couple of pairs is sufficient. The chamois is easily washed and mostly dry next morning. If still moist, it’s not an altogether unpleasant feeling and after an hour of two of hard peddling, bodily secretions take over. A pre ride dab or two of one’s duty free after-shave is suggested if the between wash interval exceeds three days. I am reliably informed by a colleague that this can be disconcerting for the sensitive female. Surprisingly this from a male, who claims to be more straight than Tony Abbott.

I wear cargo shorts over the nics for maximum pockets.

For the upper body. I would take nothing but merino tops as in Icebreaker. A mix of long and short sleeve.

There are occasional cheaper brands at the various outdoor shops but so long as they are pure wool that is perhaps better value. They wick better when sweating and are much cooler than a jersey. The best bit is that despite the blood, sweat and tears, they don’t smell or as far as I am concerned, I don’t smell. One can wear them for at least three days or more.

Of course one must pack at least minimum clothing on the assumption that at least three days will be wind and rain that portends the imminent onset of the ice age, forget global warming.

For a long holiday, pack worn out clothes on the verge of disintegration and discard on the last day in a plastic bag in the Emirates Club Lounge. I am returning substantially lighter!

I found the track along the Elbe overall slightly more challenging and variable in terms of the ride, the geography and the towns and villages. The numerous rides around the lakes of upper Austria were also memorable. The Danube was great, don’t get me wrong, but lacked the variety of the previous three weeks. The path itself a beautiful smooth tarmac.

Essential electronics

An iPhone – that’s it! Given the camera specs, it must be the iPhone 5S –

This is combined with

Google Maps

and the best travel diary

“Day One”.

Everything else is superfluous. A Garmin cycle computer as a fashion accessory is allowed.

Vital additional advice, purchase a SIM card in your European destination and ensure it has an adequate data allowance. This is mandatory if you are to use any real time GPS mapping on the road, secondly take sufficient back up battery to allow 2 full recharges in 24 hours. Suggest http://www.mophie.com

If I were to devise an itinerary in retrospect, (for Graham’s Grumpy Tour in 2014), I would fly to Salzburg, then bike around the Salzkammergut area for a week, then cycle across to Linz and then up to Prague and into Germany. Happy to negotiate.

A final word of warning – if I were to lead any sort of group cycle self guided holiday, I adhere firmly to the Armstrong principle, that it be absolutely drug free. This is not negotiable.

A few shots on the last night in Vienna

	Lindsey Millikan on Not Punta Arenas, Again?
	Ruzena on I Am Out of Here!
	caryl1@iprimus.com.a… on Call Me Paranoid
	Sally Farrington on A breathtaking hike
	Sally Farrington on Not Punta Arenas, Again?

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